beautiful life

Just wanted to check in, in case my reading audience was dying of suspense to know what is going on in Santiago these days.

Do you know where "your" President is?

That's right, he and 2000 of his security forces are making evil free trade deals right here in Santiago this weekend, at the APEC Summit (don't you think it's a problem if so many people want you dead that you can't walk the streets without an army to protect you?).

Today was the inaugrual march of the Chilean Social Forum (www.forosocialchileno.cl), which was absolutely amazing. They're estimating 30,000 people, but I think there were way more. The march was beautiful and colorful and noisy with chants and hippie drumming and dancing. It was the first time I had seen so many organized forces on the left in this city, selling their papers and everything. Since the Man has banned EVERY OTHER public protest of APEC, this was the ONLY manifestation that was not severly repressed and resulting in either mass beat-down or arrests. The cops were probably busy with the unauthorized anarchist march on the other side of town--I haven't heard about it, but I hope it wasn't too bloody. Stay tuned for a letter to Socialist Worker (www.socialistworker.org) for more details and analysis!

Sorry, I suppose it's not really right to start out with that, when my family is in town, but sometimes one has to think beyond one's own situation...Yesterday was probably one of the most beautiful days I have spent in Santiago. Picked up Mom, Fred, and Grandma T at the airport in the morning, which came after a night of crazy studying and excitement, which kept me from sleeping. Tears at the airport when hugging Mom, as usual. There's nothing like that hug...

We chatted in the cab on the way to their airport, as it became clear that Chile was also getting them under their spell. Unfortunately, due to APEC, we are currently living in a police state, so that's a bit unpleasant (who knew there were this many cops in this country?), but no matter. OK, it matters, because one feels guilty just breathing these days.

Lunch at the Museo de la Solidaridad Salvador Allende (exactly right around the corner from my house), which was fabulous. Food, of course, but there was the extra treat of me asking the waitor on my Mom's behalf about purchasing the cute little espresso cup for her collection. And being told No, we need them, and then the owner coming over and presenting it to her as a gift: Para usted. Charming.

The museum is amazing, with lots of art donated from all over the world after the 1973 military coup--lots of the art was well hidden during the dictatorship, and they founded the museum about 15 years ago, I think. Right now there is a very intense photo exhibit about the torture centers, based on the experience of one man--the room is set up like a prison camp--it's powerful and chilling.

That tired out my wonderful, eccentric (and Republican!) grandmother, so they all went and took naps at the hotel while I slaved away on my psycholinguistics project (hmmm, which I should be doing right now...) at home.

I got a call from my housemate Luis ("Lucho") saying that he was going to cook dinner for everyone that night and making sure we would all be there--the night before was supposed to be a big "family" dinner at home, but he had to film a night scene (!) and couldn't do it. But these things turn out for the best, because we could all go last night, too (that may not sound very interesting, but it's very, very rare that the four of us are all home at once, let alone spending QT together).

While Lucho's wonderful girlfriend Mané was actually preparing the pizzas for everyone, Mom, Fred, and I went to see 1907, a Chilean play about the miner's strike in the North in that year. It was produced by a very, very talented company called Patogallina (I believe that means something like duck-rooster, but that doesn't sound quite right), and featured great music with a live band, dance, and no text. Beautifully, beautifully done--actually, I went to see it with Marcelo last week and was inspired to take the fam there since there wouldn't be a language barrier. They loved it.

Well, we closed out the utopic evening with a scrumptious dinner with all the housemates, plus our neighbor and good friend Polo, and my parents. Lots and lots of borbonia (I think that's how you spell it), which is wine with fresh fruit and a favorite of Chileans--in this case, red wine with strawberries, and white wine with peaches--until very, very late.

We're going to dinner now, and the to hear jazz in Ñuñoa, and then we leave very, very early to Buenos Aires--lots of security at the airport for APEC, got to get there hella early...Hopefully I am not a total wreck in the coming weeks, because my procrastination is biting me in the ass, and I have to finish my big project and take a test and therefore cannot travel to Valporaiso with the 'rents. Argh. But it will soon pass. And I still get to hang out with them a few days, and even possibly do a nice Thanksgiving thing next week with them.

Do you realize how fast time has flown? I am trying not to get too depressed, but I have to leave this beautiful city and all my amazing friends very, very soon. Luckily, it will be followed by yummy travels, but I am still sad.

Enough of that. Hope you all are súper bien. Cuidese mucho. Wish you were here.