Ahora bien

So here I am a little over a week into being in the South. Que hermosa Argentina, que hermoso Mendoza. It was so hot a couple of days ago, then a cool spell and now the sun is back, but it's mountain, dessert weather. You never know what it's going to do. I'm getting settled--had my first night of a healthy 8-hour sleep, 2 to 10. Que rico.

I hadn't wanted to sit in front of the computer for days, but now I think it's OK. They have internet at Fed's house, so I'm just clicking away between washing dishes (you know, my favorite activity) trying to earn my keep. It's siesta time anyway except for los viejos, who are busy in the kitchen...this restaurant business keeps them very occupied half the week. I don't think I've ever seen such a cute family, so open, sometimes loud, full of love (and you know, showing it a lot, unlike us Puritans), and working together for this business they put together over time. Of course I idealize, but I can't help it, I miss my people, mi familia, mi amante. I guess it's better to live vicariously through them and their love than be surrounded by coldness and fear of physical contact, which must be what it's like for Latinos to be alone in the US, I imagine. What do I know...

Anyway, I've spent the last few days doing as little as possible, except dishes and cutting onions for salsa. Sleeping, reading (damn, finished Murakami and on to raid their shelves--Wilde's next, a first for me somehow), eating...And I went out Thursday night with Leo the clown I always wanted to meet (I was just remembering from my blog way back, that day I saw the clown in the street in Stgo that made me so happy), or be, or something. Just sweet and funny and light-hearted. (Though of course no comparison to the man voted the Class Clown in high school who has my heart.) We hung out with some of his friends and we were all tired and went to bed early (1), and then last night he took me out to a cicleteria where this viejito sells these old French and Italian bikes...and talks and talks and talks like someone I know who also loves bikes. Of course I'm in love with them all, but I'm not sure what to do yet. $300 for the one that's all set to go (road bike with flat bars and a rack)...well, almost all set, since he won't put tubes in the tires until I pay him--what?? and $100 for this beautiful track bike that also doesn't have tires yet, same deal (Zo thinks maybe because they're sew-ups?) He opens again on Monday, so I have it in mind to go over there again and have a better look. Then maybe to Stgo to look for bikes and get my shit together.

Que hago? Zo put me in touch with a guy in Santiago who's into bikes and offered to ride with me and whom I've bombarded with questions about the trip. I know nothing about the route or the terrain or even what kind of bike I should ride, but we're talking at least 500 miles, not sooo much but not little either.

Anyway, after we looked at bikes, Leo and I went out separate ways and I continued walking from Godoy Cruz, the southern district where the family lives, to the Centro. I found a veggie restaurant on my way and had to stop in for a little snack though it was early...and what a disappointment Krishna food is. Like at the temple in Berkeley Mario used to take me to, the food is cold (and hella greasy) and you heat it in the microwave. Yech! What kind of offering to the gods can microwaved food be, I ask you. But I also got some snacks for later--including something called agarroba, which is said to be sweeter than chocolate. Yikes! But even this sweets-addict hasn't been craving it, so I'm still saving it for later...Anyway, all told, a plate of heated food and goodies for later were all $3!!! Not too bad, huh?

And I eventually got to the center, which was bustling at about 9pm on a Friday (same as it was bustling at 10pm on the Wednesday I arrived)--and was still hopping when I left around 11. I wanted to check out the feria de artesania, to pick up crafty bits to take home to you all. I dunno, I was a little disappointed in the kinda cheesy tourist stuff and a lot, but a lot of hippie shit...I guess I shouldn't be so harsh, but dreads aren't really my thing even though, ok, I'm more hippie than mainstream...Anyway found some treasures, all jewelery. If there's any particular crafts you want from here, digame! Argentines are super crafty, I guess you have to be when your economy's gone to shit, but they have great stuff. And they were all super friendly and not half as sleazy as chilenos...well, except a couple of them who had been drinking...most of them are just cool bohemian artist types, even if medio-hippie.

Took a cab back to Godoy Cruz, where there was a bus of people unloading to the house, so whew, I wasn't late. I sat down with the big group, who, it turns out, are a bunch of social worker type people from La Rioja, who are the nicest people ever. I found myself really drawn to this woman who is probably someone's mother and who just gave me the sweetest, most genuine smiles all night. When we got to exchanging information, I got a street address from Graciela and a note, con cariNo a Karina and her phone number. She and the other seNoras slipped out to catch their taxi when I was in the bathroom, so I didn't get a besito goodbye, but it does have me wanting to travel more in Argentina than I had planned...They served many tacos and cerveza and Julia's boyfriend played the guitar and they showed some great short films...and then I tucked myself in.

The very very strange dreams I've had the last few nights seemed to have gone away, maybe because I finished Murakami (incredible, incredible book) or becase I'm happier. Anyway, I still haven't really done anything yet today, and the only reason I know the time is because it's right in front of me on the computer. I think I could live here...siesta all afternoon and the dinner and the sobremesa (just sitting at the table drinking and chatting) all night...not too bad.

But anyway, back to Chile in a few days, a more uptight country but still not too bad. I was told last night it's the Latin American country most similar to the US...yes, I think that's true...and why I like Argentina more this trip, as it's the most European...but what is the country that is most itself? Is that possible in these neoliberal times? Probably Venezuela or Bolivia or even Ecuador because they are shining the light for the rest of the world in fighting global capitalism.

Tonight at Subcomandante Taco I'm going to meet more folks from the MST and then it looks like party all night, so maybe I should aprovechar the siesta. But it's easier to stay awake when it's not so hot. Igual, all this thinking is making me tired. Hasta pronto.