Oooh and Ouch

So it's my second day on the beautiful, lush, green island of Chiloé, in the 10th Region of Chile. It was raining last night when my POS bike and I arrived on a bus from Puerto Montt and a very sweet señora from a nearby hostel took me in.

How can I explain how different things are here? I already said a big about the informal economy here, but there's so much more about the culture that is informal--so she gave me a special rate on a room because she needed more boarders, and she was so excited to have another 'hija' (daughter) to take care of (she calls me gringuita--little gringa: did I tell you how much they use diminuitives here? and that gringo can be used affectionately?) . She went over my little map of the islands with me and pointed out a good route for me: "you have your own airplane, you can see all you want, when people pay $60 to see the same" (an approximate translation of her Chilean speech).

She let me use the kitchen (mmmm, I'm still working on the millions of packets of rice I bought for travelling) and then her wonderful elderly mother hung out with me and served me chicken soup (yeah, I'm afraid I've gone to the other side--fish and chicken only--ok, turkey would be ok too...) and we drank tea together. It was like being at home with family.

So I rested well, falling asleep to the patter of rain and the other gringo upstairs tromping around--his shower caused it to rain in my room, in fact, so I had to change rooms--and woke up to the rooster crowing and sunshine (a bit of a miracle around here--I'm lucky to have sun). I slept late because I so needed it--even though there was a lot I wanted to see today, but I needed the energy. Had a typical Chilean breakfast--tecito y pancito (little tea with little bread) and headed out on what I discovered was...

the most uncomfortable bike I have ever ridden! It has what is probably a BMX saddle, which is hard as a rock, so I rode BMX style (off the saddle--is that really BMX style?) and worried a whole lot about my shaky front wheel. At first I was all excited because I am just doing this all in a way I would never consider at home--I rented the bike from a guy the Municipal Tourism Office referred me to (again, super-informal), and I was remembering a friend of Tom's who did bicyle touring across the country on his Schwinn ten-speed, which is hardly a touring bike. So I thought, well, I'll be fine with a crappy bike (Bianchi isn't quite the same here as there) and chain lock and panniers and helmet (that "crappy" applies to the bike and all of the above accessories), and without all my geeky clothes.

Well, so far I'm 'fine,' but my ass has never been so sore, which is why I cut the adventures a bit short today and didn't make it to the penguin colony. Qué lata.

So I started my warmup in town (Ancud, at the North of the Isla Grande de Chiloé) and saw the San Antonio fort (at the top of a hill that was none too fun to climb on two wheels), where the crillollos (Europeans born in America) fought the Spanish.

Then I checked out the museum, which is said to be the best on the island, and I believe it. They had interesting exhibits about the geology and human history on the island, which goes back 6000 years. Also some modern art from the islands and sculptures depicting the mythical creatures of the island--geographical islolation here has helped chilotes cultivate a rich mythological tradition: there's Trauco, who is a naughty gnome the locals attribute bastard pregnancies to; my favorite is Pincoya, the goddess of plenty who determines if fishermen will make it home with a good catch or suffer at sea.

I met a couple of lovely little girls there, sisters from Arica (far, far north) and Santiago, who addressed me with the formal "usted" and called me tía. I could have hung out with them all day, but I had other adventures to seek.

It was a harsh 13 km to Quetalmahue, mostly paved and great for cross country mountain biking--if you have a decent bike. But it was along the coast the whole way, which, on a clear day, is breathtaking. Yeah, that's great except I needed all the breath I could get. Luckily hiking this week helped me get in passable physical condition.

It really was a trip that you don't see on the tours, though tours have their values. But it was pure country, with very simple people working and occassionally greeting me (usually with piropos--crazy fools, I was not a beautiful sight today). Had lunch at a little restaurant--some sierra, which I think is Chilean sea bass, and french fries, which I normally don't eat--but, did you know that Darwin believed that potatoes originated on this very island? It might be true, because that's about all that grows here, and the potatoes are super yummy.
So I'm bummed I didn't make it to the penguins, but I'm going to have to find a little bike shop tomorrow so I can see more and not suffer quite so much.

I'm headed back to the hostel right now and am having dinner with the family tonight--how sweet is that? (more chicken) and need to rest up a bit and get presentable.

Chiloé is magical, and I can't wait to see more of it. It's famous for these wooden churches built by the jesuits (though they weren't sent out to built the churches out of wood and kind of got in trouble for it)--funny thing for me to get excited about, I know, but they're pretty and full of good energy--and the mythology and artesanía (crafts) that's usually woolen goods. And lots of potatoes of various kinds. And very, very warm people. Lots of backpackers just stay in people's houses as they travel--you just have to ask for a pedacito (little piece) of floor for your little sleeping bag and can you use a little water and leave your little backpack ouside...this is as typical Chilean as you can get. Actually, lots of places on the islands (there are many, not just this big one) don't even have electricity. It's precioso.

Taking lots of pictures and thinking of you. OH! If I don't have your address, send it to me so I can send a post-card to you. I'll be in Chiloé until Monday and then I head further north, to Puerto Vargas (just above Puerto Montt) and Pucón and Villarica, which are famous for adventure sports. I surrender the pathetic bike in Puerto Montt and will probably do some little tours there to see some of the national parks. (¿Cachai my use of diminutives now, even in English?--oh, cachai comes from the English verb 'to catch' and like, do ya get it, you following me--they are rather obsessed with making sure people are paying attention to what they're saying, but it's really more rhetorical than anything else, ¿cachai?)

All the best--I promise I am safe and even have two new Moms to take care of me here!